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Domaine des Malandes 2022 Vintage Press

ABS Wine Agencies, Wed 17 Jan 2024

Domaine des Malandes 2022 Vintage Press

Congratulations to Domaine des Malandes for the results on the 2022 vintage

 

Burghound.com

Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1er Cru - 92 Points
Chablis, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru - 91 Points
Chablis, Montmains, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 90-93 Points
Chablis, Fourchaume, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 90 Points
Chablis, Vau de Vey, 1er Cru - 89-91 Points
Chablis, L’Envers de Valmur - 89 Points
Chablis - 88 Points
Petit Chablis - 87 Points
Saint Bris - 87 Points

"I met this year with long-time enologist Guénolé Breteaudeau, who told me that 2022 "played an April Fools' joke on us by snowing! On the 3rd, temperatures dropped to -5° C and even on the 10th we had a white frost. This of course engendered some damage though not as much as we feared. The flowering was extended and not at all homogenous; in fact we even had ripening variations in the same bunch, which is unusual! Thereafter the summer was mostly very hot and dry but a huge end-of-June storm dropped around 80 mm of rain that basically enabled the vines to avoid much hydric stress. Even so, maturities were slow to arrive and despite the heat that mounted to as high as 40° C at times, we waited to begin picking until the 31st of August. The fruit was spotless with good though not high yields. Potential alcohols ranged from 12 to 13% though most wines came in below 12.5% so I chose to lightly chaptalize those that came in at the bottom of the range. Acidities were at best average and so I blocked the malos for a few wines, in particular the St. Bris. I'm glad that I did because the post-malo pHs ranged from 3.4 to 3.5, which is higher than I would like. Interestingly, the wines don't taste like it, and while they're not classic in style, they are delicious and refreshing." Note that the St. Bris and the Bourgogne (not presented) are sold under the Les Malandes label whereas the rest of the wines are sold under Domaine des Malandes label"

 

2022, Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1er Cru - 92 Points

A vaguely exotic note lurks in the background of the cool but ripe mix of white and yellow peach, quinine and acacia blossom that is trimmed in soft wood. There is both excellent volume and power to the larger-scaled flavors that possess notably better complexity on the saliva-inducing, balanced and beautifully persistent finish. As is often the case chez Malandes, this is the best of their premier crus. 2027+

 

2022, Chablis, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru - 91 Points

Once again there is just enough wood to merit pointing out suffusing the nose of Granny Smith, iodine, mineral reduction and the hallmark citrus wisps. The round and fleshy but quite punchy middleweight flavors exhibit an evident stoniness that adds a sense of lift to the nicely complex, balanced and moderately dry finale. Lovely. 2027+

 

2022, Chablis, Montmains, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 90-93 Points

A more floral if less citrus-suffused nose freely reveals its combination of ocean breeze, white orchard fruit and shellfish nuances. The rich and very generous yet nicely refined medium weight flavors also exude a subtle stoniness on the clean and slightly drier finish that offers just a bit more depth, at least at present. This too is lovely with fine potential. 2027+

 

2022, Chablis, Fourchaume, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 90 Points

Here too the wood influence is admirably subtle as it easily allow the ripe, fresh and vaguely exotic nose that offers just enough Chablis typicity to be appreciated. The medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence thanks to the abundant dry extract that coats the palate as well as buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lemony and attractively dry finale. This is already appealing but it's going to have to develop more depth than my rating envisions. 2027+

 

2022, Chablis, Vau de Vey, 1er Cru - 89-91 Points

Here too an admirably subtle dollop of wood can be found on the ripe and fresh aromas of green fruit, spice and sea breeze hints. There is more size, weight and power to the less refined medium-bodied flavors that display a touch of rusticity on the lemony, dry and lingering finish that is noticeably firmer. 2028+

 

2022, Chablis, L’envers de Valmur - 89 Points

An admirably discreet hint of wood sets off the ripe yet cool aromas that offer slightly more classic Chablis elements. The notably finer is less rich medium weight flavors possess a caressing yet attractively vibrant texture, all wrapped in a sneaky long and dry but not really austere finale. This is worth checking out as it's quite good for its level. 2026+

 

2022, Chablis - 88 Points

A more elegant nose combines aromas of just sliced apple, iodine, mineral reduction and a pretty floral top note. There is slightly better verve suffusing the attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that terminate in clean and slightly firmer if not especially dry finish that is shaped by lemon-tinged acidity. 2025+

 

2022, Petit Chablis - 87 Points

Pretty and agreeably fresh aromas include those of quinine, green fruit and citrus confit. Once again there is fleshy and plump mouthfeel to the delicious and nicely vibrant flavors that exhibit good if not special depth and persistence on the moderately dry finale. This should also be approachable on the younger side. 2024+

 

2022, Saint Bris - 87 Points

This is very ripe and very sauvignon blanc in character with agreeable citrus aromas that avoid the vegetal character that St. Bris can sometimes have. On the palate, there is both good volume and density to the rich and generous medium weight flavors that aren't especially complex but they are delicious, all wrapped in a slightly rustic and warm finale. To enjoy young. 2024+

 

 

Wine Advocate

Chablis, Les Clos Grand Cru - 94 Points
Chablis, Les Clos Grand Cru - 93 Points
Chablis, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru - 93 Points
Chablis, Montmains, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 92+ Points
Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1er Cru - 92 Points
Chablis, Fourchaume, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 92 Points
Chablis, L’Envers de Valmur - 90 Points
Chablis, Vau de Vey, 1er Cru - 89 Points
Chablis - 89 Points
Petit Chablis - 88 Points

 

William Kelley
"The dynamic Richard Rottiers, whose Beaujolais wines are also well worth seeking out, continues to take the formerly neglected Domaine des Malandes to ever greater heights. Conversion to organic farming, with all the work it entails, is complete, and the domaine's parcels are now easy to identify thanks to their vigorous cover crops; a massal selection program for Chardonnay has been launched, and winemaking has been refined, with cuvées now matured in used 500-liter oak barrels that make their presence felt much more discreetly, as well as 228-liter steel barrels that deliver lees contact without oxygen and oak extractives. As I remarked to Rottiers last year, the rate of improvement at this address has surpassed anything I thought possible, and this is now clearly an estate to watch closely."

 

2022, Chablis, Les Clos, Grand Cru - 94 Points

Matured in a mix of 500-liter oak and 228-liter steel barrels, the 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is deep and layered, exhibiting aromas of pear, white flowers, blanched almonds and honeycomb. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with attractive purity of fruit and bright balancing acids, it underlines this estate's continued progress. Drink 2025-2040

 

2022, Chablis, Vaudesir, Grand Cru - 93 Points

Wafting from the glass with aromas of honeycomb, vine blossom, orange zest and nutmeg, the 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir is medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and a saline, spice-inflected finish. This, too, is a fine success. Drink 2025-2035

 

2022, Chablis, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru - 93 Points

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet is a standout in the range this year, unfurling in the glass with scents of crisp orchard fruit, lime zest, buttery pasty and oyster shell, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated palate that's taut and saline, retaining a strong Chablisien signature despite the warm vintage. It's produced from a heavily virused parcel that always delivers low yields. 2023-2040

 

2022, Chablis, Montmains, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 92+ Points

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is a success, unwinding in the glass with notes of white flowers, orange zest, pear and green apple, framed by a deft touch of reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's pure and racy, with bright acids and a chalky finish. 2023-2037

 

2022, Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1er Cru - 92 Points

The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is showing well, exhibiting aromas of waxy citrus rind and green apple mingled with toasted nuts, flowers and a subtle hint of oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy, with racy acids and a gently vanillin-inflected finish, it will show well with a bit of bottle age to integrate. 2023-2027

 

2022, Chablis, Fourchaume, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 92 Points

Revealing notes of sweet citrus fruit, white flowers, crisp green apple and blanched almonds, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume is medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with a rich core of fruit, good concentration and bright acids. Some 40% was matured in barrel. 2023-2027

 

2022, Chablis, L’envers de Valmur - 90 Points

The 2022 Chablis Envers de Valmur is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of peach, Meyer lemon and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied ample and satiny palate animated by bright acids and concluding with a saline finish. 2023-2027

 

2022, Chablis - 89 Points

Offering up aromas of waxy citrus rind, white flowers and freshly baked bread, the 2022 Chablis is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a giving but lively profile, concluding with a saline finish. 2023-2033

 

2022, Chablis, Vau de Vey, 1er Cru - 89 Points

Aromas of white flowers, orange zest and almonds introduce the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey, a medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny wine that's a touch more overtly ripe and sun-kissed than the domaine's other premiers crus. 2023-2027

 

2022, Petit Chablis - 88 Points

Produced from derisory yields after a hard frost, the 2021 Petit Chablis exhibits aromas of freshly baked bread, crisp orchard fruit and citrus oil, followed by a medium-bodied palate with fine concentration and a tangy spine of acidity. Despite the challenging vintage, it's the finest Petit Chablis I've ever tasted at this address, testimony to the work Richard Rottiers and his team have invested in improving farming here. 2021-2026

 

Decanter

Chablis , Envers de Valmur : (94)
Chablis, Vau de Vey, 1er Cru : (93)
Chablis, Montmains, 1er Cru : (92)

Andy Howard MW

 

2022 Chablis, Envers de Valmur - 94 Points

A premium cuvée from a parcel planted between 1966 and 1970, at the bottom of the Vaudésir valley. Precise and pure, crystalline and focused, with pronounced oyster-shell characters coming through. 40% matured in one- to five-year-old oak. A high-class Chablis which could easily pass muster as a premier cru (at the minimum). Great finesse and concentration.

 

2022 Chablis, Vau de Vey, 1er Cru - 93 Points 

Vines were planted in the 1980s by the domaine on the steep slopes of Vau de Vey, overlooking Beine. Partially aged in oak barrels, this adds an extra dimension to the concentrated palate. A fine example with plenty of acidity to balance the ripeness of fruit. Should age very well.

 

2022 Chablis, Montmains, 1er Cru - 92 Points

A fine example with plenty of warmth on the palate, purity of fruit, a subtle note of wood (20% of the blend), but all kept in check by some lovely, direct acidity. Hint of stoniness on the finish to match the lingering flavour of stone fruit.

 

Vinous

Chablis, Fourchaume, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 92 Points
Chablis, Mont de Milieu, 1er Cru - 92 Points
Chablis, Montmains, Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru - 90 Points
Chablis, Cote de Lechet, 1er Cru - 89 Points
Chablis, Vaudesir, Grand Cru - 88 Points
Chablis, L’Envers de Valmur - 86 Points
Chablis - 85 Points